1800s Workers 1800s Fashion Men Work Pants

Dolores'due south involvement in manner history dates from her teenage years when vintage apparel was widely available in thrift stores.

Victorian gentleman circa 1870s, sketch.

Past Gionale Dei Santi on wikimedia commons; public domain

Background

The late Victorian era was a time of swell prosperity. Technical advances created the birth of the large corporation and unfettered capitalism. It was a time of optimism and opportunity, conspicuous consumption, and corruption. Industrialization brought people to cities, and urban areas grew. Railroads increased ease and availability of travel and the ability to move products long distances speedily. The late 1800s saw the invention or development of commercial and household electricity, the phone and the telegraph, electric streetcars, mail order catalogs, and section stores.

The era can be viewed every bit one long stream of contradictions—a time of prosperity interrupted by the Long Depression of 1873–1879 and the Panic of 1893. While the elite congenital extravagant homes, workers lived in crowded tenements, and the economical downturns forced workers to accept lower wages merely to feed their families.

Mark Twain's term the "Gilt Age" (1870–1900) refers to a gleaming exterior that covers a sub-par interior. La Belle Epoque (The Beautiful Era) also refers to the aforementioned time period, from the 1870s–1914.

Men'due south Fashion Overview

To mod eyes, there was fiddling change in men's styles over the years of the late Victorian era. Variations in collar acme, the visibility of waistcoats (vests), and jacket closures are subtle. Wear represented status. Ameliorate habiliment was a sign of good breeding, taste, and sense. Wealth signified moral character, and the well-dressed man was viewed as better in every style than those who stood on the lower rungs of the socio-economic ladder.

The greatest variety of style can be seen in how men dressed for unlike occasions or the time of mean solar day. A admirer wore specific garments for morning formal occasions or evening events, for outdoor activities, for general twenty-four hour period clothing, and after sunset.

Extreme styles, loud colors, or wild combinations were viewed as unmanly or loutish. New styles were generally worn by the immature, while older or conservative men stuck to older style garments.

Van Dyke facial pilus in the early on 1890s.

Wkimedia commons; public domain

Pilus

Most men of the era wore their hair short. Ane of the greatest ways to stand up out in a crowd was facial hair. In the center of the century, full beards ruled. As the Industrial Revolution brought more men indoors, a full beard suggested a viral, outdoor kind of guy. A man with a full beard appeared strong and wise.

Equally the century progressed and total beards fell out of fashion, men grew some very artistic facial hair.

• Muttonchops were exaggerated sideburns.
• Side whiskers were muttonchops taken to an extreme. They hung well below the jawline.
• A goatee featured hair on the chin but not the cheeks.
• Van Dykes were pilus on the mentum paired with a moustache with no pilus on the cheeks.
• The Walrus moustache grew down by the outer edge of the oral fissure, sometimes to the jawline.
• A handlebar moustache extended outwards and could exist turned upwards at the ends, the hair held in identify by wax.

By the cease of the century, most men were clean shaven.

Morning coat circa 1880. Note the polish curve from front to back.

Jackets or Coats

Worn as part of a suit, jackets varied over time also as time of day and occasion. While broad lapels ruled mid century by the 1880s lapels became narrow and jackets buttoned high. In the 1890s, jacket sleeves were short enough to reveal the lower office of shirt cuffs.

Coats

Frock Coats had been worn for formal day clothing or professional attire since the early Victorian era. A Prince Albert was double breasted but a frock glaze could as well be single breasted. These human knee length jackets were close fitted with a vent at the rear and a horizontal seam at the waist. It buttoned to the waist. A frock coat did not match the trousers which could exist grayness, striped, plaid, or checked. By the 1890s, apron coats were worn only by the elderly, or for diplomatic occasions.

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Morning time coats were originally developed for horseback riding, a popular morning activity for gentlemen. The single breasted jacket curved back from simply higher up the waist and displayed the lower part of a waistcoat at the front. The long, parted section of the back earned the proper name "cut-away" in the U.k., "tails" in the Us. At present we view tails as formal attire but during the late Victorian era, morning coats were informal dress.

A morn glaze could exist worn with striped trousers. Morning coats eventually replaced frock coats as formal day vesture for professional work, weddings, funerals, and other day fourth dimension special occasions.

A tailcoat or clothes coat is very similar to a morning time coat. Instead of a gradual bend from front waist to rear, the difference in lengths (front to back) is more pronounced. This coat was worn with matching trousers with decorative braid or trim down the length. A tailcoat is double breasted.

Jackets

Sack jackets or lounge coats were what nosotros think of when we moving picture a mod human's conform jacket. Originally worn for informal occasions in the countryside or at the embankment, a sack coat fell to the hips and had no seam at the waist. They were made of wool for wintertime or linen for the warmer months, and had three outer pockets.

Early on versions featured a loose fit but became more fitted toward the end of the century. While frock and morning coats required tailoring and alterations, the looseness of the sack glaze made it easier to make, allowing for mass production. They were available off the rack at department stores or through catalogs.

Sack jackets were worn with matching trousers. Though night or neutral colors predominated past the 1890s, early versions appeared in manifestly colors, checked, or plaid.,

The Tuxedo or dinner jacket was based on the sack jacket and became formal evening wearing apparel in the late 1800s. They frequently featured satin lapels.

The Norfolk jacket worn for outdoor activities like hiking and shooting, featured a chugalug and was commonly checked or tweed.

1888—a human being at piece of work wearing a belong.

Waistcoat or Belong

Waistcoats or vests were simple, sleeveless garments with deep or shallow necks, buttoned down the front. Openings could be V or U shaped. Small pockets on the lower part of the vest were ofttimes used for a watch and chain (earlier wristwatches).

Waistcoats were always worn over a white shirt. Fifty-fifty laborers wore vests at piece of work as appearing in but a shirt was considered inappropriate. Working men wore vests of heavy cotton wool or denim. Upper class men wore silk or wool broadcloth vests. Broadcloth, too used for jackets and trousers, is a large piece of wool that is felted or shrunk in hot, soapy water creating a material with no visible weave. Summer versions appeared in linen, heavy cotton, or seersucker.

While early Victorian vests could exist quite colorful featuring printed silk designs, later Victorian waistcoats were usually blackness, grey, or white. Waistcoats featured straps at the back to ensure a snug fit.

While waistcoats featured lapels, those worn for formal occasions had no lapels.

Trousers

Trousers did non change much after the mid 1800s. Loose cut trousers were worn for twenty-four hour period wear and informal occasions while narrow trousers were worn in the evening and for wearing apparel. Some trousers for evening featured complect or piping running forth the length of the leg.

Solar day wear trousers appeared in stripes, plaid, or checks. By the belatedly 1800s, trousers matched both jacket and waistcoat. Creases appeared in the 1890s. Cuffs were not in vogue until Edward 7 introduced the style in the 1890s while he was the stylish Prince of Wales. Trousers were supported with suspenders or braces, not belts. Trousers fastened with buttons as zippers had non even so been invented.

• Knickerbockers, worn for outdoor activities similar hunting, biking, shooting, hiking, and golf concluded at the human knee and were worn with knee loftier socks and sturdy shoes or high boots.
• Jodpurs, worn for equestrian activities and sports fit tight at the knee and puffed out at the thighs. These were often worn with a jacket that flared at the hips.

Homo wearing a boater hat, a loftier collared shirt, and a checked jacket.

wikimedia commons; public domain

Hats

The iconic acme hat was worn for both day and evening formal occasions. The tall stovepipe chapeau of mid century shortened during the late Victorian era. Usually black, elevation hats also appeared in charcoal or grey. A wide blackness band surrounded the tall crown for mourning, worn subsequently the death of a family member.

Top hats were originally mate of felted beaver fur, later on of silk hatter's costly (a soft silk weave). The hats were brushed to a fine sheen. Mercury used in the production of top hats is poisonous with symptoms including dementia and hallucination giving rising to the phrase "mad as a hatter."

A derby or bowler featured a hard, rounded crown and narrow, upturned brim. First created as protective gear, information technology became the first mass produced chapeau. Worn by factory managers and bookkeepers, the cheap ready made chapeau became hugely pop. Despite stereotypes of cowboy hats and stetsons, the derby was the most frequently worn lid of the American west.

Boaters were made of potent, braided straw. They featured a flat crown and a broad, flat brim. A ribbon surrounded the crown. The absurd summer way had specific dates (which varied regionally) when they could exist worn.

Homburgs were introduced in the 1890s and were a favorite of Edward, Prince of Wales (the fashionable prince who gave his name to an era). Made of wool felt with a flattish brim, Homburgs featured a dent in the center of the crown running from front to dorsum.

Shirts and Ties

White shirts worn for formal and professional day wear featured stuff, starched shirt fronts. A plain white shirt was e'er worn with a vest. Stiff, standing collars widened upward to three inches alpine in the 1890s.

Removable collars and cuffs became popular in the 1880s. The collars could be worn straight upward or folded over. In the 1890s pastel or striped shirts were paired with removable white collars. The removable starched linen collars and cuffs meant that one shirt could exist worn for days.

The elite wore custom tailored shirts just mass produced, ready-to-wear shirts became available at men's shops or the new section stores.

Shirts were made of linen, cotton, lawn (very low-cal weight cotton or linen), or cambric. Flannel shirts were provided warmth and a causal feel in the country side.

Unproblematic bow ties were popular in short or longer versions. Ascots gained popularity in the 1870s for both formal and informal occasions. Ascots could be tied simply or in complicated knots. The ascot gave nativity to the necktie as we know it today. Late Victorian neck ties were shorter than modernistic versions. Stick pins were worn with ascots as well every bit neck ties.

Ulster overcoats

wikimeida eatables; public domain

Overcoats

Overcoats were worn full or ankle length or could be calf length. Acme coats ended at the hips. Several styles of coats were pop.

• The Chesterfield, a herringbone tweed coat, featured a velvet neckband.
• Tweed Ulster coats were worn loose or belted with a detachable hood or cape. The cape barbarous to the elbow.
• A Mackintosh was a waterproof all weather condition coat. Wool cloth was coated on ane side with dissolved rubber with some other layer of wool on peak.
• The Inverness originated as a sleeved coat with a long greatcoat. Past the 1870s, the cape was divided into fly similar sections. Lapels appeared in some versions while others had no lapels. It looked like a cape worn over a coat and provided extra atmospheric condition protection for carriage drivers and others who spent a lot of time outdoors.

Undergarments and Sleepwear

Until the 1890s, men slept in a nightshirt, a long loose plumbing equipment wearing apparel like garment that could reach to the knees or longer. They could be gathered at the cervix with a drawstring or feature a peachy collar.A nightcap was worn in cold weather.

By the end of the century, pajamas came into vogue. Called a sleeping suit, or pyjamas in the UK, pj's came in silk or wool and in colors and stripes. Men also wore robes.

During the late Victorian era, men's undergarments were made in factories and bachelor at department stores or men'due south clothiers. High waisted drawers could be knee or ankle length. They featured an access hatch or drop seat in back and a fly forepart fastened with buttons.

A belong or undershirt was square cut and obviously, hanging beneath the waist. Drawers and vests were fabricated of flannel or wool. Combinations or union suits, like to jump suits or i piece garments were also worn..

Shoes and Socks

• Socks made of Balbriggan, an Irish knit, were commonly blackness and held upwards by garters.
• High top shoes featured pointed toes and could have laced or buttoned closures. For evening, a gentleman wore pattent leather low rise shoes or low rise boots.
• In the 1880s, toes became blunt and squared off. Cloth topped half boots featured leather on the lower part of the shoe, with heavy cloth stitched on the upper part.
• Plimsolls or sneakers were condom soled and were worn at the beach or for tennis. Keds were introduced in 1892.
• Condom overshoes were available to protect feet from the pelting. Rubber boots lined with wool provided warmth in wintertime and for snowfall.
• House slippers made of costly silk often featured elaborate embroidery. The sideslip on house shoes could exist open or closed backed.

1896 men'southward swimwear worn by Alfred Hajos at the Olympic games.

wikimedia commons; public domain

Swimwear

In England, men wore drawers for pond. Women bathed at separate locations so going shirtless did not offend.

Ane piece, curt-legged tank suits were popular in the USA where both genders bathed in the same areas. Separates included knee-length breeches and a curt-sleeved or sleeveless shirt. Swim wear was made of jersey, a wool knit.

1887 fisherman

Photograph by Paul Mathey; wikimedia commons; public domain

Article of clothing of the Lower Course

Working class men wore ready made garments constructed of inexpensive fabrics like cotton, wool, denim, or corduroy. Corduroy is a warm, ribbed cloth that is both soft and durable and was used in making trousers, vests, and jackets. Laborers and factory workers all wore a belong over their shirts.

Of class, lower class men could not afford or take reason to make all the daily wearable changes of the elite. About lower class men owned a sack jacket and skillful trousers for special occasions. This Sunday best lasted a lifetime.

Sweaters, often worn by fishermen and rural people of common cold climates were paw knit. Some fishing families or regions made sweaters with distinctive colors or patterns. Wool sweaters are peachy insulators every bit wool keeps the body warm even if it becomes moisture. Victorian fishermen, as well every bit their wives and daughters, knit.

Bib overalls were introduced in the 1890s.

For Farther Reading

History of Men'south Mode by Farid Chenoune

Englishman's Suit by Hardy Amies

Elegance and Mode 200 Years of Men's Fashion past Vittoria De Buzzaccarini

Handbook of English Costume in the 19th Century by Alan Mansfield and Phyllis Cunningham

A History of Men'due south Way by Nicholas Storey

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